2002年日本鳥取縣史蹟調查記

  近日作研究故,查閱與古代日本出雲國相關的資料,看到「上淀廢寺」以及「四隅突出型墳丘墓」,想到我在2002年三月末所作的日本史蹟調查。當時的目的地之一就是鳥取縣的這些考古遺址。行程結束後我寫過紀行,登在自己的網站。事過境遷,匆匆十四年。重閱舊文,感慨繫之。當年的這些歷史遺址調查活動牽動了我此後十多年的研究興趣。節錄其中與出雲國有關的部分。舊文重登,只想追憶自己走過的路。如下。P0001145
  米子是我們(與一位東京大學教授)的第一個目的地。到了米子已近晚上十點。我們投宿在車站旁的旅館。 米子對我而言是一個陌生的城市。它在鳥取縣西邊,是關西往日本海沿岸的要道。而這幾天,日本海附近也與台北一樣,受到來自中國大陸的沙塵暴侵襲,經常灰濛濛。左圖是我第二天晨興後,從窗內所攝得的市容。

  3月22日,在旅館餐廳簡單用了早餐以後,與幾位日本考古學的專家會合,一起前往妻木晚田遺址。這裡是日本海附近重要的大型考古聚落遺址,時間是繩文時代至室町時代。經過1995年至1998年的挖掘,發現大量彌生時代的聚落遺跡與墳墓。2001年起,再展開為期二年的遺址整理工作。同行的東大教授是日本的聯合國UNESCO機構的委員,這個委員會在此開會,以檢討此遺址整理的諸工作的進行。P0001171
  遺址近日本海。三月下旬,海風吹來,仍甚有寒意。喜歡遊盪在考古遺址,遙想當年。這個興盛於紀元前後的聚落,在當時應是一小國。一如同時期的其他考古遺址,P0001176這裡有住宅遺址,有倉庫,有祭祀所。如左下圖、右下圖。其墳墓是所謂「四隅突出型墳丘墓」,如右圖。這類墓當是這個小國的統治者的墳墓。墳墓區的存在也意味著這個聚落統治者的權力相續。聚落四週有環濠,故推測有頻繁的戰事。尤其是不時有從日本海上岸的敵人攻來,這些人應該是從朝鮮半島來的P0001158。日本的古代史學者也正在爭論日本的遠古時代是否如當初想像的那機比較和平安定。我已考察過不少日本的古代遺址,每個都是謎樣世界。相較於中國史,探索日本作為一個國家或民族的起源更無法依賴文獻。這次UNESCO所作的調查活動,鳥取縣的NHK派記者來拍攝以作成新聞。

P0001179  我再轉到附近的「淀江町歷史民俗資料館」參觀,如左下圖。承一位鳥取縣教育委員會女士的好意載我前來,她還為她的車子沾滿沙而不乾淨向我致歉。我只好說我們台北也是飽受中國大陸來的風沙之苦。或許這是另一個今日東亞世界特色與範疇的界定法。淀江町歷史民俗資料館是一個很典型的日本地方上的文物館,不見P0001182得有特色,但安靜舒適,適合消磨時間。因為這裡出土了不少考古文物,故還是有些看頭。我隨意的逛了逛,就到旁邊的「白鳳之里」的溫泉餐廳用午餐。主食的鮪魚丼與P0001188飯後的咖啡、蛋糕都是水準之作。食物的味道都在其次,能獨自一個人在日本海岸的小旅館內用餐,且這個季節遊客稀落,頗有安適閒暇的愉悅。飯後,去參觀了旁邊的考古公園「伯耆古代之丘公園」。伯耆之名的由來是這裡在江戶時代是屬伯耆國。近代日本也經歷了一段類似中國的西化經驗,國族的危機也使一些日本人視傳統為近代化的包袱。二十世紀八十年代以後,古蹟的意義受到重視,各地也開始建立其文物館,或宣稱其有「日本一」的考古遺址。隨著考古學的受重視,日本除了開挖考古遺址外,也興建所謂「體驗」的遺跡公園,即重建遠古時期的聚落型態,並使參觀者能實際體驗古代人的生活細節。這類公園的理念是讓參觀者「體驗」當時人的生活,至於所見是否P0001193為真實的遺跡原物則是次要的。在考古興趣與商機的多重考量下,這類遺址公園紛紛出現,有名者如我曾去過的北九州的吉野里與青森的三內丸山。伯耆古代之丘公園規模則小許多。右上圖是從小丘上眺這個公園。左圖則是模擬之古墳,為統治者的墳墓。右下圖是我站在一個「祭壇」中的留影。P0001200
  走出公園後,與東大教授相約見面的時間尚早,就在附近走走。一直很喜歡日本的小鎮與鄉間。或許也因為自己的童年是在日式建築中渡過,每次在日本看到古舊的和式建築,總勾起溫暖的童年記憶,回到那安靜的台灣六十年代。左下圖是我在附近閒逛所見的一角落。

  與東大教授會合後,已近下午五點。我們二人匆匆忙忙趕到P0001206附近的另一遺址「上淀廢寺跡」。此處在1996年被指定為「國史跡」。此寺院建於七世紀末的奈良時代,持續至十一世紀的平安時代,後為火災所毀。1991年的考古調查中,發現了金堂遺跡與殘存壁畫,壁畫是與法隆寺並列的日本最早佛教壁畫。此寺院的發掘對於研究日本古代佛教流傳定有所助益。我們二人到達時,挖掘工作仍在進行,如上圖是工作人員在挖掘金堂南方的正門遺址。負責鳥取縣「文化財」的縣教育委員會的中原先生開車來這裡看我們,除了負責案內我們外,也介紹我們認識在這裡挖掘的學者。中原先生出身明治大學的考古系,畢業後來到故鄉鳥取縣負責考古工作。相對之下,台灣的考古學顯得沒落。其後,中原先生開車送我們二人回到米子飯店。在此分手。我們二人再租車前往鳥取。
  這個晚上,我們計畫在東大教授的丈人家過夜。沿著日本海往東行,夜暮低垂,海風呼嘯。我不時看著左邊曚曨的日本海,不時打瞌睡。這幾年來,更覺人生無常,此刻不能預知下一刻將身在何方。經過白免海岸時,我們下車觀看這個日本有名的白免傳說的發生地。八點多才到主人家。主人家目前只有夫婦二老居住,寒夜有勞二位長者相待,心裡十分過意不去。
  3月23日。也不敢太晚起,畢竟在人家作客。一起用了日式的早餐。站在窗旁看著外面的景色,驚見外頭下起雪來。我興奮得跟老太太說,她卻教我這不是雪,而是みぞれ(mizore),即雨夾雪。由於我們二人行程緊湊,故在九點時就告別了主人家。我幾度回首這座沒落的豪宅。

  沿著日本海岸往西走,我們先來到了鳥取沙丘,這是一片風化後的沙丘地區,很壯觀。我們二人下車想登P0001220上沙丘,但強風夾雜著雨雪,頭都抬不起來,只好作罷,縮回車內取暖。下一站是去參觀「岡益之石堂」,如左圖。近代明治時期為建構天皇制存在的事實,努力編造「天皇論述」,這裡被指定為七世紀安德天皇的墓地。無論如何,這個遺址應是七世紀時這個地區的某個統治者的墓地,其建築形式據說受到中國雲崗石窟的影響。但很遺憾此石堂在整修,故看得不很清楚。

  接著再驅車參觀「梶山古墳」。這是七P0001226世紀日本古墳時期位在日本海沿岸的重要古墳。其形狀是變形的八角形。如右圖。古墳的研究的中心課是探究日本古代國家的成立,近二三十年來,古墳的考古帶動了日本的古代史研究熱潮。為了要解開古墳的謎,使日本學者重視中國古代禮制。一些日本學者對我的研究有些興趣的原因之一在此。
P0001236    接著我們到「鳥取藩主池田家墓所」。此池田家是江戶的大名家,控有今天的鳥取地區,時間是從1630年起,以至明治時「廢藩置縣」。左P0001232圖是墓所的入口,山景幽靜。右下圖是第一代藩主之墓。其墓是採墓碑建立在龜趺之上的形式,此形式也為一些江戶大名之墓所用。同行的東大教授是龜趺碑研究的專家,我的知識也多由他而來。左下圖是其碑,P0001233上書「興禪院殿故因伯刺史俊翁義剛大居士」。 興禪院是其院號,受古代以來佛教信仰的影響。因伯是因幡、伯耆二國之名,歷來鳥取藩主之官職為因伯二國之刺史,或稱為州牧。這是延續中國古代的傳統,也是在東亞政治秩序中藉由中國式的官職以顯示政治地位。俊伯義剛是其法號,或稱戒名。我自己也從事儒教對於江戶時期日本影響的研究,故也特別有興趣於佛教對於江戶時期政體的影響。雖然不知者比知者多。當時下著雨,加上強風,真是一趟辛苦的史蹟考察。也體驗到了山陰地區陰晴多變的詭異天氣。
  以上。

About 甘懷真

現職:臺灣大學歷史學系教授 研究領域:中國古代史、禮制與皇帝制度研究、東亞古代政治史 通訊處:臺灣大學歷史學系 臺北市106羅斯福路4段1號 電話:886-2-33664710
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